Pub review: The Hillgrove

Thursday 7th May 2009

This is a Crackerjack review of Hillgrove Porter Stores. Do you agree? Rate and review this venue.

Family friendly: 7 / 10.
Range of drinks: 9 / 10.
Atmosphere: 8 / 10.
Food and drink: 6 / 10.

“Ooh, this is just like a proper pub,” whispered the woman walking through the door of The Hillgrove. She was followed a few minutes later by a young man who walked in, looked at the seven real ales on display and simply said: “Oh my god!”

Such reactions are not unusual at this former Campaign For Real Ale (CAMRA) pub of the year and they are with very good reason. It is exceptional.

Tucked away between the 1960s tower blocks and the grand houses of Kingsdown Parade, this splendid red-bricked Victorian pub is an absolute gem and an essential watering hole for real ale fans.

Part of the small, Bristol-based pub company Dawkin’s Taverns, it achieves that tricky balance between traditional pub and trendy hangout.

A pub that appeals to old locals and students, it feels and looks every inch the classic British pub, from the scuffed wooden parquet floor and church pews to the piles of battered board games and baize green walls plastered with beer mats and pumps clips.

The seven West Country real ales – all from small breweries – are chalked up on the board with tasting notes. On this occasion, they included Blindmans Tickle Your Tonsils, Moor Merlin’s Magic, Three Castles Tanked Up, Goffs Tournament, Three Castles Knights Porter, Matthews Brassknocker and Cheddar Gorge Best. Now that’s what I call a list.

There’s draught Weston’s perry and cider plus Thatchers Gold. For lager drinkers, there’s draught San Miguel, Amstel, Erdinger and Budweiser Budvar, more than a dozen whiskies and some 18 wines available by the glass or bottle. All beers and wines are available to taste before buying.

Since my last visit, the food offering has improved greatly and extends beyond a pickled egg and packet of crisps.
There’s fishfinger sarnies, chilli, sausage and mash, burgers, jacket potatoes and other pub staples, all sensibly priced.

The popular quiz on Sunday nights has a prize of 10 pints of ale and on the first Monday of the month there is an open mic night.

All in all, The Hillgrove ticks all the right boxes for a great local and, yes, “it’s just like a proper pub”.

Mark Taylor

This is a Crackerjack review of Hillgrove Porter Stores. Do you agree? Rate and review this venue.