Gumstool Inn

Thursday 2nd July 2009

This is a Crackerjack review of Gumstool Inn. Do you agree? Rate and review this venue.

Food and drink: 9 / 10.
Service: 9 / 10.
Atmosphere: 8 / 10.
Value for money: 9 / 10.

In an area awash with luxurious boutique hotels, Calcot Manor at Tetbury remains one of the jewels in the Cotswold crown.

The hotel celebrates its 25th anniversary this year but the building dates back much further than that.

The Tithe Barn at the end of the Courtyard was built in the 14th century by monks from the Cistercian Abbey at Kingswood.

The barn still stands, surrounded by late 17th and early 19th-century farm buildings that were used until the working farm moved elsewhere in the 1970s, and the old barns and stables became redundant.

In 1983, the manor house and the surrounding buildings were purchased by Brian and Barbara Ball and their son, Richard, who then converted the main house into a small seven-bedroom hotel which opened the following year.

Other rooms, barns and outbuildings were gradually converted into further individually decorated bedrooms.

In 1992, the Stone family (who had been regular guests) came forward to provide a big financial injection so that the hotel could be further developed.

While taking over ownership of Calcot Manor, the Stones were clear that the running of the hotel remain with the existing management and Richard Ball continues as managing 
director today.

Over the years, the hotel has grown considerably. What was once a vegetable patch is now the fine dining Conservatory Restaurant, and the old farmer’s quarry has since given way to the luxurious Spa.

The Gumstool Inn occupies a former overgrown paddock, but it feels like it has been there for years.

Driving up the sweeping gravel drive, there is a sense of grandeur about the hotel.

Although not technically a pub despite its hanging sign, The Gumstool Inn is accessed through a stone arch and attractive courtyard garden.

The building is all flagstones, expensive fabrics and mocha tongue and groove – it’s relaxed and informal, appealing to families and well-heeled Cotswold folk. A large proportion of regular diners come from Bristol and Bath.

Now into its 14th year, The Gumstool Inn has clearly built up a huge and loyal following. When we arrived, the car park was packed and there was barely a spare table to be had in the restaurant. “Actually, this is quiet for us,” smiled the manager when we remarked how busy it was.

Chef Michael Croft has been running the kitchen here since it opened and he has been in the game long enough to know what people want to eat.

The main menu changes monthly and there is a separate daily menu with a dozen or so new dishes every day. On this occasion, they included dressed Cornish crab, mayonnaise and lemon (£10.25), Longhorn beef and mushroom pie (£12) and skate wing with avocado, tomato and capers (£13.75) – simple stuff, done well.

We kicked off with an excellent watercress soup (£4.50), which was as silky as it was peppery, and a magnificently fresh fillet of Cornish mackerel (£6) placed on a bed of garlic-rubbed toast, rocket and the juiciest, sweetest tomatoes I’ve tasted in ages.

From the daily specials, a whole griddled plaice with nutty brown butter and lemon (£13.25) was incredibly fresh, perfectly cooked and very good value, as was the free-range Label Anglais chicken spit roasted with lemon, thyme and local roasted root vegetables (£13.95). Label Anglais is the chicken of choice for the best chefs in the country and it had that muscular, juicy texture that indicated a bird that had enjoyed a happy, active life.

And just look at those prices – only the steaks tipped the £15 mark, which for the quality of the cooking in a top Cotswold restaurant is sure to make people rub their eyes in disbelief. No wonder it has a Michelin Bib Gourmand – an award for “good food at moderate prices”.

Desserts continued the form – a majestic English rhubarb and apple crumble with proper custard (£5.65) achieved the right balance between tart fruit and sweet custard and a plum clafoutis (£5.75) was well made (and made to order), although if I was being hyper-critical I would say plums aren’t the best fruit for this pudding, the more traditional cherries producing more juice. Still, what the dish lacked in moistness was made up for by the enormous ball of refreshing ginger ice cream.

With 26 wines available by the glass and bottle, there is also plenty of choice on the drinks front for those not driving, and most of the wines are under £20 a bottle so there are bargains to be had.

Great food at reasonable prices served by knowledgeable, friendly staff. It’s no wonder The Gumstool Inn continues to attract so many people from Bristol.

After 14 years it is still on top of its game and a fine example of its type. I cannot recommend it highly enough.

MARK TAYLOR

Wheelchair access: Yes
Prices: Starters from £4.50; main courses from £10.50; desserts from £5.65

This is a Crackerjack review of Gumstool Inn. Do you agree? Rate and review this venue.